The faucet is the last part of the system beer touches before the glass — the wrong style or a worn-out one shows up immediately as excess foam, drips, or an inconsistent pour. We stock rear-sealing, forward-sealing, flow control, and stout faucets in chrome, 304 stainless steel, and PVD gold finishes, including Perlick's forward-sealing line.
Faucet Types
Rear-Sealing Faucets — the standard commercial design; the seal sits behind the tap, so beer contacts the internal faucet mechanism between pours; needs more frequent disassembly and cleaning
Forward-Sealing Faucets — Perlick's design; the seal sits at the front, so beer never touches the internal mechanism; less drip, less bacteria buildup, and less frequent teardown needed for cleaning
Flow Control Faucets — add an adjustable compensator so you can dial down pour speed on high-carbonation or nitro-adjacent beers without changing your regulator pressure
Stout Faucets — restrictor-plate design for nitrogen-dispensed stouts and nitro beers; creates the cascading effect and tight head these beers need
Finishes
Chrome-plated brass — the budget-friendly standard; holds up fine at moderate volume but can show wear sooner under heavy daily cleaning
304 stainless steel — the commercial-grade choice; resists pitting and corrosion through years of caustic/acid line cleaning cycles
PVD gold — a stainless-steel base with a durable gold finish for bars that want a premium look without giving up commercial durability
Faucet Repair & Replacement Parts
Don't replace a whole faucet over a worn seal. We stock the individual parts that fail most often:
Bonnets, collars & shaft assemblies — in chrome, brass, stainless, and PVD gold to match your existing faucet finish
Levers — brass faucet levers for rear-sealing faucets
Seals, O-rings & gaskets — including Perlick-specific parts (425, 525, 630 series) and coupling gaskets
Repair kits — faucet repair kit with spanner wrench for a full rebuild in one order
Brand-specific parts — genuine Perlick and Taprite replacement parts by faucet series
Not sure which faucet fits your setup? Contact us with your beer style (standard draft vs. nitro/stout) and cleaning frequency, and we'll point you to the right style and finish.
Faucet FAQ
Forward-sealing or rear-sealing — which faucet do I need?
Forward-sealing faucets (like Perlick's) keep beer from contacting the internal mechanism, which means less drip buildup and less frequent teardown for cleaning — worth the extra cost for high-volume commercial bars. Rear-sealing faucets cost less up front but need more regular disassembly and cleaning to prevent bacteria buildup in the body.
Do I need a stout faucet for nitro beers?
Yes — a standard faucet won't create the cascading effect or tight, creamy head that nitrogen-dispensed stouts and nitro beers need. A stout faucet's restrictor plate forces the beer/nitrogen mix through small holes on the way out, which is what produces that cascade.
Chrome, stainless, or PVD gold — does the finish actually matter?
For appearance, it's a style choice. For durability, it matters: 304 stainless steel holds up best against years of caustic and acid line-cleaning cycles, chrome can show wear sooner under heavy commercial use, and PVD gold gives you a premium look on a stainless base without sacrificing that durability.
What causes a faucet to drip or foam excessively?
Most drip and foam issues trace back to a worn faucet seal or o-ring, beer stone buildup inside the body, or pressure/temperature that's out of spec for the line length — not the faucet brand. If cleaning and a fresh seal don't fix it, check your CO2 pressure and glycol/line temperature before replacing the faucet.
Do you sell individual faucet parts, or only complete faucets?
Both. If your faucet is dripping or foaming and a full teardown shows a worn seal, O-ring, or lever rather than body damage, you can usually fix it with a repair kit or the specific part instead of replacing the whole faucet — including genuine Perlick parts by series (425, 525, 630) and Taprite stout faucet parts.
Cleaning or Replacing Other Draft Parts?
See our Beer Line Cleaning collection for the cleaning side of faucet maintenance, and Keg Couplers if the issue is upstream at the keg.
Replacement parts quick path
Need a beer faucet part? Start with what failed.
A dripping faucet, leak at the shank or sticking handle often needs one serviceable component—not a full faucet replacement. Match the faucet brand and series when you can, then use the direct links below for common replacement parts.
Send us a clear photo of the faucet, the failed part and any brand or model markings. We will help point you to the right product or the measurements needed to identify it.
What beer faucet part usually causes a leak at the shank?
Check the coupling gasket first. It seals the faucet to the shank. If the leak is at the spout or inside the faucet, the seat, O-ring or another internal component may be the issue instead.
Can I use any gasket or seal kit in my faucet?
No. Match the part to the faucet brand and series. Perlick flow-control faucets, standard faucets and stout faucets can use different internal components even when they look similar from the outside.
Should I repair a faucet or replace it?
If the body is sound and the failure is a gasket, seat, O-ring, lever, bonnet or other serviceable component, a repair part is often the practical move. Replace the faucet when the body is damaged, worn beyond repair or no longer fits the way the system is used.
